Exterior & Body - Fenders (Wings) and Accessories

Fenders, liners, flares, and wheel arch parts for American cars and trucks. This collection covers everything from direct OEM-steel replacements to widebody flares and polished wheel arch molding, plus the inner fenders, seals, and hardware needed to finish the job properly.

The range skews heavily toward classic truck and muscle car platforms, with Brothers Trucks parts making up a large share of the stock. Whether you're restoring a Squarebody C/K to factory spec, fitting wider rubber under a restomod, or replacing a rotted inner fender on a classic pickup, the parts and the trimmings to go with them are here.

Choosing replacement fenders and wheel arch parts

Most buyers arrive at this collection with one of three jobs in mind: replacing a damaged or rusted outer fender, fitting fender flares or widebody panels to clear wider tyres, or completing a restoration with the liners, molding, and seals that make the finished result look right. The outer fender gets the most attention, but the parts around it, the inner fender, the wheel arch molding, the splash seals, and the mounting hardware, are what separate a tidy installation from one that looks unfinished three years later.

There are four things worth weighing before you order: material, fitment style, application scope, and platform specificity. Get all four right and the part fits, looks correct, and lasts.

What to look for

Material: steel or fibreglass

Steel is the factory choice on almost every truck and muscle car this collection covers. It welds, it fills, it takes body filler the same way the surrounding metal does, and a ding can be repaired rather than replaced. For a restoration or a street-driven restomod, steel is usually the right call.

Fibreglass is lighter and doesn't rust, which matters on a dedicated track car or a build where shaving weight is part of the brief. The trade-off is that fibreglass doesn't absorb impact the same way, cracks rather than dents, and can be harder to match if you're painting alongside factory steel panels. Gel-coat finish fibreglass panels can also need more prep work before paint.

For most builds in this collection's wheelhouse, steel OEM-profile fenders are the practical choice. Fibreglass makes sense when weight reduction is explicit in the brief.

Fitment style: OEM profile, flares, or widebody

OEM-profile fenders replicate the factory shape. They're for builds where the goal is stock appearance or a subtle restoration, and they bolt in without modification to the inner structure.

Fender flares and widebody panels add material outboard of the factory line. The purpose is tyre clearance: if you're running wider wheels and tyres than the standard arch allows, flares push the coverage out to match. How far they push it out varies by product, so check the fitment notes against your intended wheel and tyre combination before ordering. Flares also change the visual character of the vehicle considerably, which is the point on a stance or show build but worth knowing if you're trying to keep things subtle.

Custom or fabrication-oriented pieces sit between the two: they may follow the OEM mounting points but have a modified profile, or they may be designed for a specific suspension lift or off-road application.

Application scope: outer panel only, or the full picture

A fender replacement rarely ends with the outer skin. The inner fender, also called the wheelhouse or inner fender liner, sits behind the outer panel and keeps water, mud, and road debris away from the engine bay and chassis rails. On a truck that's had a hard life, the inner fender is often in worse shape than the outer.

Seals between the fender and the cab, between the fender and the firewall, and along the lower edges of the arch keep water out of joints that would otherwise trap it and rust from the inside. Fender-to-cab seals on Squarebody trucks are a known failure point: the foam compresses and cracks, water tracks along the A-pillar, and you end up with rust in the firewall area long after the outer fender looks fine.

Molding and trim, the lower fender moldings, the wheel arch trim strips, and the polished arch surrounds, complete the appearance side. On a show truck or a well-restored classic, missing or cracked trim is as noticeable as a bad panel gap.

Budget for all of this before you order just the outer fender. The outer panel is the visible part; everything around it determines whether the job holds up.

Platform and generation specificity

Fender parts are generation-specific. A front fender for a 1966 C10 will not fit a 1973 Squarebody, and neither will fit a 1988 OBS truck. Inner fenders, wheel arch molding, and seals are the same: the mounting points, the profiles, and the dimensions all vary by model year range.

Before ordering, confirm the exact model year, body style (standard cab, crew cab, short bed, long bed where relevant), and side (LH or RH, which means driver-side or passenger-side as fitted, not as viewed from behind). Most parts in this collection are sold individually, so if you need both sides, order both.

Trade-offs

Steel is heavier than fibreglass and will rust again if the coating is broken and left untreated. Fibreglass won't rust, but it cracks under impact and doesn't repair the same way. Wider flares give tyre clearance but add visual bulk you can't easily walk back. Polished or chrome trim looks sharp on a well-built truck but requires more upkeep than painted or black trim, particularly in UK conditions. OEM parts sourced from specialists like Brothers Trucks are matched to the original dimensions and surface profiles, which generally means less fitting time than generic panels that claim fitment but aren't dimensionally verified.

Which fender parts to pick

The right combination depends on what your build actually needs.

Restoration or like-for-like replacement on a classic truck: start with the outer fender in steel, add the matched inner fender and the fender-to-cab seal for that generation, and pick up the lower molding if the original is cracked or missing. This is the most common job in this collection and the one Brothers Trucks parts are designed for.

Wider tyres and stance: look at flares and wheel arch extensions. Confirm the clearance figure against your wheel offset and tyre width before ordering. If the outer arch is also in poor condition, replacing the fender first and fitting the flare over a solid base is neater than fitting flares to a rusty arch.

Protection on a car you drive regularly: the fender protection mat is the quick add. It won't help with structural wear, but on a classic car or a show vehicle where the concern is dings and debris when you're working under the bonnet or leaning over the wing, it does its job without any installation at all.

Show finish or full restoration: the outer fender, inner fender, seals, lower molding, and polished wheel arch trim, all matched to the same generation and side, is what makes a restoration look like a restoration rather than a repair.

Top picks

These four products cover the most common jobs in the collection.

Brothers Trucks C/K Squarebody Front Fender (RH) is the OEM-style steel replacement for the right-hand front fender on the 1967-72 Chevy/GMC C/K Squarebody generation. Direct bolt-in, factory profile, suitable for restoration or daily-driver replacement. If you need the left side, the matched left-hand fender is in the same range. This is the first part most Squarebody restorers order, and it sets the tone for everything else that follows.

Brothers Trucks Inner Fender (Front, Right) is the wheelhouse liner for the same platform. It sits behind the outer fender and keeps the engine bay side of the arch protected from water and road debris. On a truck that's had its outer fender replaced before but never had the inner sorted, this is often where the hidden rust is. Fits the 1960-66 C/K generation.

Brothers Trucks Wheel Arch Molding (Front, Polished, Right) is the finishing piece. Polished stainless, fitting the front wheel arch on the 1970-72 C/K generation, it's what takes a freshly painted fender from functional to finished. Sold individually; order the matched left side at the same time if you're doing both arches.

Fender Gripper C3 Corvette Mat is a different kind of fender part. It's a non-slip mat that sits on top of the fender when you're working under the bonnet, protecting the paint from tools, buckles, and elbows. No fitment issues, no installation required. On a car you've spent time and money painting correctly, it's a sensible thing to keep in the garage.

For trim and molding to go alongside a fender replacement, the Exterior and Body Trim collection has the coordinating pieces. If you're working on the bed or tailgate at the same time, the Truck Beds and Panels collection covers the sheet metal from the cab back. Restomod builds taking the interior as seriously as the exterior will find the matching trim in the Interior Trim, Chromeware and Carpets collection.

FAQ

What is the difference between steel and fibreglass fenders?

Steel fenders are welded, filled, and painted like the surrounding body metal. They absorb minor impacts without cracking, and small dings can be repaired rather than replaced. Fibreglass is lighter and won't rust, which suits track builds where weight matters, but it cracks under impact and can be harder to match against factory steel panels when painting. For street-driven classics and trucks, steel is the practical choice.

Do I need to replace the inner fender when I replace the outer one?

Not always, but check it before you assume it's fine. The inner fender (wheelhouse) takes the majority of the water and mud thrown up by the tyre, so it often deteriorates faster than the visible outer panel. If the outer fender has rusted through, the inner is likely to have taken damage too. Fitting a new outer over a rotted inner is a short-term fix; replace both at the same time if the budget allows.

Are fender flares and widebody extensions worth fitting on a street car?

If you're running wheels and tyres wider than the standard arch covers, flares are a practical requirement. On a street build, they also change the stance considerably, which suits some builds and not others. Check the clearance figure for any flare against your actual wheel offset and tyre width before ordering; flares vary in how far they extend outboard, and the spec sheet is more reliable than visual estimation.

Are fender liners, seals, and molding just cosmetic, or do they matter structurally?

Seals and liners matter structurally. Fender-to-cab seals prevent water tracking into panel joints and down into the firewall area, which is a known rust path on classic trucks. Inner fender liners protect the inner sill and chassis rails from direct water and debris contact. Molding and trim are primarily cosmetic, but on a restoration they also cover the panel edges and joints that would otherwise be exposed to the elements.

Are fender parts platform and year-specific, or do they cross over between models?

They are generation and platform-specific. Mounting points, arch profiles, and panel dimensions all vary between model years and body configurations. A fender for a 1966 C10 will not fit a 1973 Squarebody. Always confirm the exact year range, body style, and side (LH driver or RH passenger) before ordering. Most parts in this collection are sold individually, so if you need both sides, order them separately.

What else do I need when fitting a replacement fender?

At minimum: the outer fender, the matching inner fender or wheelhouse liner (if replacing), the fender-to-cab seal and any lower splash seals for your generation, and the correct mounting hardware. If you're fitting polished or OEM-matched wheel arch molding, order that at the same time so the finish is consistent. Fitting a new fender without replacing degraded seals means water continues to track into the same joints.